Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting - Premier Magic Lung®

While Vent-A-Hood® range hoods are designed to provide years of trouble free operation, it still may be necessary to troubleshoot an issue when it occurs. The following is a list of the more common issues that may arise when using a Vent-A-Hood® range hood, followed by the specific solution to that particular issue.


What To Do If…

Smoke is in the kitchen when hood is operating. Check the following:

    Is the hood sized appropriately for the type of cooking equipment it is over?

      The purpose of a hood is to collect cooking contaminants and hold them until the blower unit can exhaust them to the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to size the hood based on the type of cooking equipment that is being used. Whenever possible, hoods should overlap the cooking equipment by at least 3 inches on each side. For an island application, this is considered mandatory. The hood should also project out to the front edge of the front burners. Finally, the height of the hood can affect its performance. Generally speaking, taller hoods are more suitable for professional style ranges, whereas under cabinet hoods are recommended for standard cooking equipment.

    Does the blower capacity of the hood match the cooking equipment it is over?

      B100 Single Blower (300 CFM)- Under cabinet or wall mount hoods for standard electric and 4-burner gas or equivalent cooking equipment.
      B200 Dual Blower (600 CFM)- Under cabinet or wall mount hoods for standard cooking equipment, gas or electric, and professional style ranges.
      B200 Dual and B100 Single Blowers (900 CFM) - Wall mount hoods for larger professional style ranges.
      Two B200 Dual Blowers (1200 CFM)- Wall mount hoods for larger professional style ranges.
      T200 Island Dual Blower (550 CFM)- Island hoods for standard cooking equipment, gas or electric, and professional style ranges.
      Two T200 Island Dual Blowers (1100 CFM)- Island hoods for larger professional style ranges.
      T400 Cluster Island Blower (1100 CFM)- Island hoods for larger professional style ranges.

    Is the hood ducted properly?

      The duct should be smooth walled. Corrugated or “flex” type duct must not be used as it restricts airflow. The duct work should be the same square inch area (or larger) as the hood discharge for the entire length of the duct run. Run the duct as short and straight as possible. Enlarge the duct for longer duct runs. Maintain 4 to 5 foot spacing between turns. Turns should be smooth and gradual, not sharp and angled. Roof jack and wall louver openings must be free of obstacles, be at least as large as the duct size, and open freely (i.e. NOT spring-loaded).

    Is the hood mounted at the appropriate height off the cooking surface?

      The height of the hood off the cooking surface is very important. The higher the hood is mounted, the less effective it will be. Hoods only collect cooking vapors-they will not pull cooking contaminants back into the hood if they escape into the kitchen. Generally speaking, the deeper the hood, the higher the hood can hang and still be effective.


      Under Cabinet 6” tall 21-24”
      Under Cabinet 9” tall 24-27”
      Euroline PD, SLD 14 Models, TILT 24”
      Wall Mount 30”
      Island 30”
      Standard Liner – BSLD 24-27”
      Standard Liner – BPSLD, BPSLB, TSLE, TPSLE 30”

    Are the blower wheels paired with the correct motors and oriented in the hood properly?

      Remove the blower housing as described in Hood Cleaning, Section B. White blower wheels should be paired with white motor mounts and turn clockwise. Black blower wheels should be paired with black motor mounts and turn counterclockwise. If the blower wheel is paired with the improper blower motor, the hood will not function properly.

    Do the dampers open and close freely?

      With the blower housing off (see Hood Cleaning, Section B), locate the damper (flap) and ensure that it opens and closes freely. If it does not, identify and remove any obstructions that are preventing the damper from opening. Screws protruding through the duct work are the most common obstruction. During installation, only duct tape should be used to attach transitions or duct work to the top of the hood. Screws that are used to connect duct work and transitions extend inside the duct work and may obstruct the damper from opening. During installation damper could be pushed into the blower housing. If this is the case simply push gently up on the damper until it clicks past and above the housing. A damper should rest on top of the blower housing when not in use.

    Is each blower wheel free of excess build-up?

      With the hood in the off position, remove the blower housing and insepct each blower. If a blower wheel has excess build-up, with the hood in the off position, remove the blower wheel (see Hood Cleaning, Section C) and clean with warm, soapy water and non-abrasive sponge.

    Note: If smoke still enters the kitchen after following these suggestions, contact your Distributor for additional service/suggestions.


Hood making a rubbing or scraping noise. Check the following:

    This may be caused by the blower wheel coming in contact with the front edge of the blower housing or rubbing the motor mount screws. Un-snap the latches on the blower housing (see Hood Cleaning, Section B) and make sure the housing is properly seated on the face of the motor housing. If the blower wheel is rubbing on the motor mount screws, the blower wheel will need to be repositioned on the motor shaft (see Hood Cleaning, Section C).

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