Troubleshooting RM1000/RM1500 Remote Blower Models

While Vent-A-Hood® range hoods are designed to provide years of trouble free operation, it still may be necessary to troubleshoot an issue when it occurs. The following is a list of the more common issues that may arise when using a Vent-A-Hood® range hood, followed by the specific solution to that particular issue.

What To Do If…

Smoke is in the kitchen. Check the following:

Is the hood sized appropriately for the type of cooking equipment it is over?

The purpose of a hood is to collect cooking contaminants and hold them until the blower unit can exhaust them to the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to size the hood based on the type of cooking equipment that is being used. Whenever possible, hoods should overlap the cooking equipment by at least 3 inches on each side. For an island application, this is considered mandatory. The hood should also project out to the front edge of the front burners. Finally, the height of the hood can affect its performance. Generally speaking, taller hoods are more suitable for professional style ranges, whereas under cabinet hoods are recommended for standard cooking equipment.

Does the blower capacity of the hood match the cooking equipment it is over?

RM1000 Remote Blower (1000 CFM)- Under cabinet for standard cooking equipment, gas or electric. Wall mount or island hoods for standard cooking equipment, gas or electric, and professional style ranges.

RM1000 Remote Blower (1500 CFM)- Wall mount or island hoods for larger professional style ranges.

Is the hood ducted properly?

The duct should be smooth walled. Corrugated or “flex” type duct must not be used as it restricts airflow. The duct work should be the same square inch area (or larger) as the hood discharge for the entire length of the duct run. Run the duct as short and straight as possible. Enlarge the duct for longer duct runs. Maintain 4 to 5 foot spacing between turns. Turns should be smooth and gradual, not sharp and angled. Roof jack and wall louver openings must be free of obstacles, be at least as large as the duct size, and open freely.

Is the hood mounted at the appropriate height off the cooking surface?

The height of the hood off the cooking surface is very important. The higher the hood is mounted, the less effective it will be. Hoods only collect cooking vapors-they will not pull cooking contaminants back into the hood if they escape into the kitchen. Generally speaking, the deeper the hood, the higher the hood can hang and still be effective.




Under Cabinet 9” tall	24-27”
Wall Mount	30”
Island	30”
Standard Liner – BSLD	24"-27”
Standard Liner – BPSLD, BPSLB, TSLE, TPSLE	30”




Do the dampers open and close freely?

With the filter removed (see Hood Cleaning, Section B), locate the dampers (flaps) and ensure that they open and close freely. If they do not, identify and remove any obstructions that are preventing the dampers from opening. Screws protruding through the duct work are the most common obstruction.

During installation, only duct tape should be used to attach transitions or duct work to the top of the hood. Screws that are used to connect duct work and transitions extend inside the duct work and may obstruct the dampers from opening.

Note: If smoke still enters the kitchen after following these suggestions, contact you Distributor for additional service/suggestions.

Troubleshooting V-Line Power Lung™ (K-Series)

While Vent-A-Hood® range hoods are designed to provide years of trouble free operation, it still may be necessary to troubleshoot an issue when it occurs. Below is a list of common issues followed by the solution.

What To Do If…

Smoke is in the kitchen. Check the following:

Is the hood sized appropriately for the type of cooking equipment it is over?

The purpose of a hood is to collect cooking contaminants and hold them until the blower unit can exhaust them to the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to size the hood based on the type of cooking equipment that is being used. Whenever possible, hoods should overlap the cooking equipment by at least 3 inches on each side. The hood should also project out to the front edge of the front burners. Finally, the height of the hood can affect its performance. Generally speaking, taller hoods are more suitable for professional style ranges, whereas under cabinet hoods are recommended for standard cooking equipment.

Does the blower capacity of the hood match the cooking equipment it is over?

K250 Single Blower (250 CFM)- For standard electric and 4-burner gas or equivalent cooking equipment.

Is the hood ducted properly?

The duct should be smooth walled. Corrugated or “flex” type duct must not be used as it restricts airflow. The duct work should be the same square inch area (or larger) as the hood discharge for the entire length of the duct run. Run the duct as short and straight as possible. Enlarge the duct for longer duct runs. Maintain 4 to 5 foot spacing between turns. Turns should be smooth and gradual, not sharp and angled. Roof jack and wall louver openings must be free of obstacles, be at least as large as the duct size, and open freely.

Is the hood mounted at the appropriate height off the cooking surface?

The height of the hood off the cooking surface is very important. The higher the hood is mounted, the less effective it will be. Hoods only collect cooking vapors-they will not pull cooking contaminants back into the hood if they escape into the kitchen. Generally speaking, the deeper the hood, the higher the hood can hang and still be effective.




Under Cabinet 6” Tall Hood

21-24” (bottom front edge)




Does the damper open and close freely?

With the grease pan removed (see Hood Cleaning, Section B), locate the damper (flap) and ensure that it opens and closes freely. If it does not, identify and remove any obstructions that are preventing the damper from opening. During installation, only duct tape should be used to attach transitions or duct work to the top of the hood.

Note: If smoke still enters the kitchen after following these suggestions, contact you Distributor for additional service/suggestions.

Is the hood making a rubbing or scraping noise?

This may be caused by the blower wheel coming in contact with the blower housing. Refer to Hood Cleaning, Section C for blower wheel installation details.

Troubleshooting - Premier Magic Lung®

While Vent-A-Hood® range hoods are designed to provide years of trouble free operation, it still may be necessary to troubleshoot an issue when it occurs. The following is a list of the more common issues that may arise when using a Vent-A-Hood® range hood, followed by the specific solution to that particular issue.

What To Do If…

Smoke is in the kitchen when hood is operating. Check the following:

Is the hood sized appropriately for the type of cooking equipment it is over?

The purpose of a hood is to collect cooking contaminants and hold them until the blower unit can exhaust them to the outside. Therefore, it is necessary to size the hood based on the type of cooking equipment that is being used. Whenever possible, hoods should overlap the cooking equipment by at least 3 inches on each side. For an island application, this is considered mandatory. The hood should also project out to the front edge of the front burners. Finally, the height of the hood can affect its performance. Generally speaking, taller hoods are more suitable for professional style ranges, whereas under cabinet hoods are recommended for standard cooking equipment.

Does the blower capacity of the hood match the cooking equipment it is over?

B100 Single Blower (300 CFM)- Under cabinet or wall mount hoods for standard electric and 4-burner gas or equivalent cooking equipment.
B200 Dual Blower (600 CFM)- Under cabinet or wall mount hoods for standard cooking equipment, gas or electric, and professional style ranges.
B200 Dual and B100 Single Blowers (900 CFM) - Wall mount hoods for larger professional style ranges.
Two B200 Dual Blowers (1200 CFM)- Wall mount hoods for larger professional style ranges.
T200 Island Dual Blower (550 CFM)- Island hoods for standard cooking equipment, gas or electric, and professional style ranges.
Two T200 Island Dual Blowers (1100 CFM)- Island hoods for larger professional style ranges.
T400 Cluster Island Blower (1100 CFM)- Island hoods for larger professional style ranges.

Is the hood ducted properly?

The duct should be smooth walled. Corrugated or “flex” type duct must not be used as it restricts airflow. The duct work should be the same square inch area (or larger) as the hood discharge for the entire length of the duct run. Run the duct as short and straight as possible. Enlarge the duct for longer duct runs. Maintain 4 to 5 foot spacing between turns. Turns should be smooth and gradual, not sharp and angled. Roof jack and wall louver openings must be free of obstacles, be at least as large as the duct size, and open freely (i.e. NOT spring-loaded).

Is the hood mounted at the appropriate height off the cooking surface?

The height of the hood off the cooking surface is very important. The higher the hood is mounted, the less effective it will be. Hoods only collect cooking vapors-they will not pull cooking contaminants back into the hood if they escape into the kitchen. Generally speaking, the deeper the hood, the higher the hood can hang and still be effective.




Under Cabinet 6” tall	21-24”
Under Cabinet 9” tall	24-27”
Euroline PD, SLD 14 Models, TILT	24”
Wall Mount	30”
Island	30”
Standard Liner – BSLD	24-27”
Standard Liner – BPSLD, BPSLB, TSLE, TPSLE	30”




Are the blower wheels paired with the correct motors and oriented in the hood properly?

Remove the blower housing as described in Hood Cleaning, Section B. White blower wheels should be paired with white motor mounts and turn clockwise. Black blower wheels should be paired with black motor mounts and turn counterclockwise. If the blower wheel is paired with the improper blower motor, the hood will not function properly.

Do the dampers open and close freely?

With the blower housing off (see Hood Cleaning, Section B), locate the damper (flap) and ensure that it opens and closes freely. If it does not, identify and remove any obstructions that are preventing the damper from opening. Screws protruding through the duct work are the most common obstruction. During installation, only duct tape should be used to attach transitions or duct work to the top of the hood. Screws that are used to connect duct work and transitions extend inside the duct work and may obstruct the damper from opening. During installation damper could be pushed into the blower housing. If this is the case simply push gently up on the damper until it clicks past and above the housing. A damper should rest on top of the blower housing when not in use.

Is each blower wheel free of excess build-up?

With the hood in the off position, remove the blower housing and insepct each blower. If a blower wheel has excess build-up, with the hood in the off position, remove the blower wheel (see Hood Cleaning, Section C) and clean with warm, soapy water and non-abrasive sponge.

Note: If smoke still enters the kitchen after following these suggestions, contact your Distributor for additional service/suggestions.

Hood making a rubbing or scraping noise. Check the following:

This may be caused by the blower wheel coming in contact with the front edge of the blower housing or rubbing the motor mount screws. Un-snap the latches on the blower housing (see Hood Cleaning, Section B) and make sure the housing is properly seated on the face of the motor housing. If the blower wheel is rubbing on the motor mount screws, the blower wheel will need to be repositioned on the motor shaft (see Hood Cleaning, Section C).

Troubleshooting

Browse our list of Range Hood Troubleshooting topics for your Vent-A-Hood®.

Troubleshooting - Magic Lung® (B-Series and T-Series)
Troubleshooting - Power Lung (V-Line) [K-Series]
Troubleshooting - Remote Blower Systems (RM-Series: RM1000/RM1500)
Troubleshooting - M Line (M600/M1200)

Light Bulb Replacement

Range hood light bulbs will burn out over time. Below are replacement instructions for the types of bulbs used in Vent-A-Hood® range hoods.

Safety is important when is comes to replacing a light bulb of a range hood. The first thing to remember is to turn off power and allow lights to cool before proceeding.

LED Bulbs (Magic Lung Models)

Replace the bulb with a genuine factory replacement part (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1350).

Fig. 1 Fig. 1

Fig. 1

1. Use caution when pulling down on the old bulb to prevent the springs from snapping back against your hand. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.

2. Once the bulb is hanging beneath the light panel (Fig. 3), simply disconnect the old bulb from the harness via the quick connect adapter.

3. Remove and discard the wire and plug section from the harness on the new bulb. Connect the new bulb to the hood wiring harness via the quick connect adapter.

4. While securing the slack in the wires, feed the wires into the light panel and insert the new bulb into the panel opening. You will need to press the springs on the bulb far enough backward to be able to fit them into the light panel. Use caution when inserting the new bulb to prevent the springs from snapping back against your hand or the light casing.

5. Turn the power on at the service disconnecting means on the service panel and test all blower and light functions to ensure they are operating properly.

Fig. 2 Fig. 2		Fig. 3 Fig. 3
Fig. 2		Fig. 3

Halogen Bulbs or LED Bulbs (V-Line, ARS, M Series)

To remove the bulb, turn it counter clockwise. If the light is difficult to remove, obtain a bulb suction cup from a lighting or hardware store. Replace the bulb with a PAR20 120 volt, 50 watt halogen bulb (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1130) or with a GU10 120 volt, 50 watt halogen bulb (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1110) for newer models.

Fluorescent Bulbs and Starter

Non-covered fixtures- To remove the lamp, face the hood, grasp the bulb at each end, and twist up and away. Take care not to put too much force on the glass as it may easily be broken.

Covered fixtures- To remove the lamp, face the hood, remove the plastic cover, grasp the bulb at each end, and twist down and away. Take care not to put too much force on the glass as it may easily be broken. Replace the bulb with an 18 inch, 15 watt T8 fluorescent bulb (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1120). Hold the new lamp at each end and rotate it slowly into the sockets until it locks into position.

To remove the starter, turn the starter counter clockwise (when looking into the starter). Replace the starter with a FS-2 type starter (Vent-A-Hood® part number P1105).

Infrared Heat Lamps

To remove the bulb, turn it counter clockwise. Take care not to put too much force on the glass as it may easily be broken. If the light is difficult to remove, obtain a bulb suction cup from a lighting or hardware store.

Replace the bulb with an R40, 120 volt, 250 watt maximum infrared bulb.